www.PaulBowles.org

 
 

The Authorized Paul Bowles Web Site

 

RECOMMENDED JANE AND PAUL BOWLES

ARCHIVES, RESOURCES AND LINKS

For Morocco and Tangier links, please scroll down on this page.

 

The University of Delaware Library, Paul Bowles Collection On-line Internet exhibition of the University of Delaware Library Paul Bowles Collection of acquired and archived Paul Bowles papers, manuscripts, books, first edition books, letters, photographs and documents.

The Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center, Paul Bowles Collection University of Texas at Austin archives of Paul Bowles papers, manuscripts, letters, tape recordings, photographs and documents.

The Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center, Jane Auer Bowles Collection  University of Texas at Austin archives of Jane Bowles papers, manuscripts, letters, tape recordings, photographs and documents.  Also of relevance is the related Millicent Dillon Papers.

The Paul Bowles Moroccan Music Collection, 1959-1962, The Library of Congress  Paul Bowles's tape recordings of Moroccan vocal, religious and instrumental music, including tribal, folk and dance sounds of ceremonies or performances―in the languages and dialects of Arabic, Hebrew, Maghribi, Tachelhait, Tamazirht and Tariffcht—with accompanying photographs. The Library of Congress sponsored this work under a grant Bowles was awarded from the Rockefeller Foundation. The first recordings for this project were made in 1959 on a four-month trip throughout the Kingdom of Morocco. Bowles made further recordings during the time period of 1960–1962—in 23 locations throughout Morocco.

Paul Bowles Papers, 1940-1988, Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Columbia University  Contains correspondence and manuscripts (three short stories and some poems, letters from Frank Roberts, Irving Stettner and Ira Cohen), a short story by Mohammed Mrabet, and one tape recording of a Bowles' musical composition, "Wet and Dry".

The Library of Congress Online Catalog  The Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. is the oldest federal cultural institution in the United States and serves as the research arm of Congress. It is also the largest library in the world. To locate books, electronic resources and materials by or about Paul Bowles, do a subject browse search for:  Bowles, Paul

Moroccan Sojourn: A Visit with Paul Bowles  World traveler, artist and author Annette Solyst describes her October 1995 visit with Paul Bowles in Tangier.

Paul Bowles on Music  This book contains a collection of Paul Bowles' music reviews and essays and was published by The University of California Press. It includes the last interview with Paul Bowles that was conducted by Irene Herrmann who later was designated by Paul Bowles as his musical heir. (Edited by Timothy Mangan and Irene Herrmann.)

Obituary of Paul Bowles  On November 19, 1999, the New York Times featured a full-page obituary: "Paul Bowles, Elusive Composer and Author Known for 'Sheltering Sky,' Dies at 88." (This obituary contained several photographs in the print edition.)

Obituary of Jane Bowles   From the May 31, 1973 edition of the New York Times.

The Jane and Paul Bowles Society  An independent author society for both Paul Bowles and Jane Bowles, whose members participate in academic and scholarly panels and discussions at international and American literary conferences. This page also details upcoming and past Jane and Paul Bowles-related events, current and past Bowles news, and calls for papers and panels.

 

MOROCCAN TRAVEL INFORMATION, NEWS MEDIA, HOTELS, CULTURAL EVENTS, RESOURCES AND LINKS FOR TANGIER AND MOROCCO

TOURIST AND GENERAL INFORMATION FOR MOROCCO

Moroccan National Tourist Office (Office National Marocain du Tourisme: ONMT) This comprehensive Web site about Morocco is filled with useful travel information to help you plan a customized trip to Morocco, find places to stay, view panoramic photographs of travel destinations in Morocco, see maps, current weather, get details on festivals and moussems, and learn about upcoming events.  [Français et Anglais]      [Recommended]

Welcome to the Kingdom of Morocco Information on Morocco provided by the Ministry of Communication in Rabat.  [in Arabic, French, Spanish, English] 

AIRLINES, FERRY BOATS–HYDROFOIL AND TRAIN SERVICES FOR MOROCCO

AIRLINES

Royal Air Maroc  The national airline of Morocco, Royal Air Maroc (RAM), provides direct international flights to Morocco from major cities in Europe, from JFK airport in the United States, Montréal, Canada and the Middle East, with connecting service to all regions and major cities in Morocco, via its hub at Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca. Tangier Ibn Batouta International Airport (code TNG), formerly Boukhalef, has a beautiful state-of-the-art terminal building which was inaugurated by His Majesty King Mohammed VI in 2008. Tangier's airport terminal provides WiFi Internet access in the departures lounge area. In 2010, the airline plans to launch Royal Air Maroc Express to service regional or domestic-routes. RAM has dropped its former low-cost airline Atlas Blue, whose flights and operations have been incorporated into Royal Air Maroc. (Airport codes for some major cities in Morocco are: TNG for Tangier, Morocco; either CAS or CMN for Casablanca; RAK for Marrakesh; and AGA for Agadir.) 

Jet4You  Jet4You is a low-cost or discount airline which has regular flights to Morocco from various European cities: Brussels Sud, Belgium; Cologne-Bonn, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hanover and Munich, Germany; Paris-Orly, Lyon, Toulouse and Marseilles, France; and Bologna and Milano, Italy. Jet4You has three direct flights a week to Tangier from Barcelona (BCN), Spain, in addition to its direct flights to Tangier from Brussels (BRU), Belgium and Cologne-Bonn (CGN), Germany. Jet4You also has flights to and from Casablanca, Rabat, Fez, Nador, Oujda, Marrakech and Agadir, Morocco. [French, English, Italian]

easyJet  easyJet is one of Europe's major discount airlines with flights to numerous destinations within Europe and throughout the Mediterranean region. easyJet has daily direct, nonstop flights to Tangier (TNG), Morocco from Madrid (MAD), Spain and from Charles de Gaulle (CDG) Paris, France, and six days a week to Casablanca (CAS), Morocco. Other flights connect Marrakech (RAK), Morocco with London (LGW), Gatwick Airport, Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), Paris and Lyon (LYS), France, and Milan (MXP), Italy, Basel-Mulhouse-Frieburg (BSL) and Geneva (GVA), Switzerland and Madrid (MAD), Spain. Other easyJet routes connect Casablanca, Morocco with Madrid (MAD), Spain and Lyon (LYS), France.     [Web site is in English and many other languages]

Air Arabia Maroc This low-cost airline based in Sharjah began operations in Morocco in May 2009 with flights from its second hub at Casablanca's Mohamed V Airport using a fleet of new Airbus A320 aircraft. Air Arabia was named as the number one "Low-Cost Carrier of the Year" in 2009 by Aviation Week magazine. Air Arabia Maroc has non-stop flights from Casablanca, Morocco direct to Brussels South Charleroi, Belgium, and to Lyon, Marseille and Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, France (daily service). There are several flights a week to Casablanca from Milan–Bergamo, Italy, to Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport, to Istanbul, Turkey's Sabiha Gökçen International Airport, and to Rome, Italy's Fiumicino Airport (FCO). Air Arabia has numerous flights to destinations throughout the Middle East, Turkey, India and other countries. [In Arabic العربية, English, and Français]].

FERRY BOAT / HYDROFOIL SERVICE TO TANGIER FROM SPAIN

FRS Ferry Service The easiest way to get to Tangier, Morocco from Spain by boat is to use the FRS Ferry Service, which operates a fleet of very fast, comfortable and air-conditioned ferry boats–hydrofoils. There are several departures every day directly to Tangier across the Strait of Gibraltar from Tarifa, while the boats or hydrofoils from Algeciras now arrive at the new Tangier Med Passenger Terminal, 40 kilometers (25 miles) outside the city. The travel time from Tarifa to Tangier's downtown port is about 35 minutes, but it may actually take up to one hour, depending upon the weather conditions and winds. You may make your reservation and purchase your ticket online. Please read below about changes in port of arrival in Tangier. Boats or hydrofoils from Tarifa still arrive at the downtown port but those from Algeciras and Gibraltar now arrive at the new Tanger Med Port Passenger Terminal which is located about 40 kilometers northeast of Tangier. A free courtesy bus will take you to downtown Tangier. [In English, Spanish and German]

TRANSFORMATION OF OLD DOWNTOWN PORT AREA IN TANGIER

WITH CHANGES OF ARRIVALS OF SHIPS AND HYDROFOILS TO THE NEW

TANGIER MED PORT PASSENGER TERMINAL OUTSIDE TANGIER

The old downtown port area in Tangier, Morocco is being transformed into a world-class yachting marina with the development of a major project of construction of new residential housing, hotels, cultural and shopping areas and complexes. Passengers from Algeciras now arrive at a new port terminal outside Tangier and the plan is gradually being phased into full operation between April 2010 and October 2010. The FRS Ferries from Tarifa arrive at the downtown city port in Tangier while those from Algeciras and Gibraltar arrive at he new Tanger Med Port outside Tangier. When fully implemented, most ferry boats, hydrofoils and passenger or cruise ships that had previously arrived at the port of Tangier will now arrive at the new Tangier Med Port Passenger Terminal located between Tangier Med Port 1 and Tangier Med Port 2―about 25 miles (40 kilometers) outside the city of Tangier. Passengers arriving on boats, ferries, hydrofoils and cruise ships at this new terminal will simply go through Moroccan Customs and take a taxi or a free shuttle bus to downtown Tangier. Actual construction at the city port  and marina is scheduled to begin before the end of 2011, according to Abdelouafi Laftit and local authorities, making the city of Tangier a more leisurely, clean and cultured city that will attract many more visitors from Europe and elsewhere in the world.  

TRAIN SERVICE IN MOROCCO

ONCF trains (Office National des Chemins de Fer)  ONCF is the national train company in Morocco, with daily train services that connect many cities at a reasonable cost. The modern train station in Tangier is one of the most beautiful in all of Morocco and in the world. The ONCF Web site gives schedules and times of departures and arrivals, and you can see how much a ticket will cost, in Moroccan Dirhams, to various cities. For destinations in Morocco which do not yet have rail connections, ONCF has modern buses (coaches) with its Supratours subsidiary so you may comfortably continue your journey by bus (coach) for a modest supplement in fare. [In Arabic, French and English 

Morocco is building the Arab world's first high-speed (TGV) trains which will connect the Mediterranean port city of Tangier, Morocco with Casablanca, Rabat and Marrakech. The trains will travel at speeds of up to 320 kilometers per hour (200 miles per hour). The new train system is scheduled to be operational by December 2015. Additionally, work is underway in the construction of new rail lines to connect Tanger Med Port passenger terminal to the train station in the city of Tangier, with connections to other major cities and regions in Morocco. (The Tanger-Med Port complex is the largest container shipping port in Africa.)  [In French]    

TRAVEL AGENCIES AND TOURS IN MOROCCO

Gazelles Destination Travel Agency   A quality travel agency based in Tangier and managed by Sam Aaqiq. Gazelles Destination arranges for travel, tours, hotels, and customized itineraries for individuals, groups and cruise-ship passengers to cities and towns throughout Morocco including Tangier, Tétouan, Chefhaouen, Fès, Marrakech, Casablanca, Essaouira, the southern Atlantic coast beach resort city of Agadir, and other areas of Morocco.  [French, English, Spanish, Italian and Russian]

Travel-Exploration  Discover and explore the best that Morocco has to offer with Travel-Exploration Travel Agency. It offers two-to-ten-day tours from Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Casablanca or Fez. It arranges for airline flights, hotels and plans a complete itinerary for a memorable trip to Morocco. Customized and private tours can also include the Gnawa Festival in Essaouira and Festival of World Sacred Music in Fez, visiting Berber villages in southern Morocco and the opportunity for travelers to spend time with a traditional Moroccan family in a fortified Kasbah village.

RESTAURANT IN CASABLANCA, MOROCCO

Rick's Café, Casablanca  Rick's Café restaurant and piano bar, opened in 2004 by Kathy Kriger, is located at the edge of the medina in Casablanca. It was inspired by the classic 1942 Hollywood film Casablanca. Enjoy your stay or stopover in Casablanca, Morocco at Rick's Café. The city of intrigue described so vividly in the film Casablanca was really the city of Tangier, and Rick's Café Américain was actually modeled after the famous bar at the Hôtel El Minzah.

WEATHER AND TIME IN MOROCCO

Time and Weather―Tangier, Morocco

Current Weather Conditions for Cities in Morocco

FESTIVALS AND SPECIAL EVENTS IN MOROCCO

Fez Festival of World Sacred Music  The 16th annual Fes Festival of World Sacred Music (Festival de Fès des Musiques Sacrée du Monde) was held in Fez, Morocco from June 4–12, 2010.  [In French]  

Festival Gnaoua et Musiques du Monde d'Essaouira  Festival Gnaoua et Musiques du Monde d'Essaouira is held each year in June in Essaouira, Morocco. This very popular music festival in Morocco has achieved great success since it first began in 1998, and it now attracts a worldwide audience. The 13th Gnaoua and World Music Festival 2010 in Essaouira was held from Thursday, June 24, 2010 to Sunday, June 27, 2010.

Tarab Tanger  Festival des musiques traditional du monde, 2ème Édition, "La Musique de l'Autre", was held in Tangier from June 23–27, 2010.  Tarab Tanger's musical concerts by artists from various countries were held at Place 9 Avril (the Grand Socco), Jardins de la Mendoubia, Musée de la Kasbah, Borj El Hajoui and Place des Nations. [in French]

Festival International de Musique de Tanger ("Les Nuits de la Méditerranée")  The 10th International Music Festival in Tangier was held from June 30 to July 4, 2010, at the Palais des Institutions Italiennes (Palais Moulay Hafid), under the high patronage of His Majesty King Mohamed VI.

TANJAzz: le Festival de Jazz de Tanger  TANJAzz is an annual festival of jazz music in Tangier, Morocco, with performances and concerts held at places throughout the city. The 11th Tangier Jazz Festival will be held from September 22–26, 2010.

BOOKSHOPS IN TANGIER

Librairie des Colonnes  This famous bookshop, now owned by Pierre Bergé, was established in 1949 and offers books in French, Spanish, English and Arabic. Currently being renovated, the book store will reopen at the end September 2010 at the same address: 54, Boulevard Pasteur, Tanger, Maroc.

 

NEWS MEDIA (NEWSPAPERS AND RADIO) IN MOROCCO

Le Matin du Sahara et du Maghreb  One of Morocco's national daily newspapers, Le Matin is distributed throughout the Kingdom and has an online edition.  [in French]   

Le Journal de Tanger  A weekly newspaper in Tangier published each Saturday, Le Journal de Tanger has news for the region of Tanger and Tétouan, Maroc. [In French]    

Maghreb Arabe Presse (MAP)  News from Morocco, updated daily.  [In Arabic, English, French, Spanish. Japanese, Chinese and Korean]  

Aujourd'hui le Maroc A Moroccan newspaper based in Casablanca with feature articles and news.  [in French]

Radio Mediterranée Internationale [Medi 1]  Medi1 is a popular Moroccan radio station broadcasting internationally with news, music and other programs live, 24 hours a day from Tangier, Morocco, in both French and Arabic. You can listen to live broadcasts of Medi1 from its Web site.  

Tanger Pocket: Le Guide de la ville du détroit  This glossy monthly guide book to Tangier has an online edition which has accurate and up-to-date information on all current events held in Tangier. Coleurs Tanger Pocket Guide has comprehensive listings of restaurants, hotels, art galleries and shopping, and general details on what's happening in the city.

CULTURAL AND EDUCATIONAL WEB SITES FOR TANGIER

Tanger: Histoires, culture et documentation  A comprehensive Web site about the city of Tangier, Morocco with information on its history and cultural heritage.  [in French]   

Tánger Express  Tánger Express provides information about Tangier, its history and culture, writers, artists, books and films about Tangier, photos and more, with homages to Mohamed Choukri and Paul Bowles. [In Spanish] 

The American School of Tangier  An international school founded in 1950, for grades 1–12, based in Tangier, Morocco. The students are from many countries throughout the world as well as Morocco. The American School of Marrakech is a branch of The American School of Tangier, established in Marrakech in 1995.    

Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies (TALIM)  Sometimes referred to as the American Legation Museum, TALIM is a museum, library and research and cultural center that specializes in North African and Arabic language studies. This historic property in the medina of Tangier, Morocco was a gift from Sultan Moulay Suliman to the United States in 1821, and it is the oldest U.S. diplomatic property in the world and the only property on foreign soil that is listed in the U.S. National Register of Historic Places as a National Landmark. When visiting Tangier, don't forget to visit the museum's Paul Bowles Room. Please note that this special room is devoted only to Paul Bowles and not to the Beat Generation, although there are several photographs of Bowles with several of these writers who arrived in Tangier in the mid-1950s and 1960s. The museum is open to the public free of charge from Monday through Friday (closed during lunch hours) and on weekends by appointment. 

American Institute for Maghrib Studies (AIMS) is a private, non-profit educational organization which works to facilitate research in North Africa and encourage the free exchange of information between American and North African scholars. AIMS supports the Tangier Summer Advanced Arabic Language Program (TSALP).

International Centre for Performance Studies (ICPS) holds annual international literary and performance studies conferences in Tangier.

Instituto Cervantes de Tánger  This large Spanish school in Tangier has regularly-scheduled cultural events, exhibitions of films and art works.  [Español and Arabic]

Institut Français du Nord  The French Cultural Center in Tangier and Tétouan presents a diverse schedule of cultural activities including cinema and dance. Monthly art exhibitions are held at the Galerie Delacroix at 86, rue de la Liberté, across the street from the Hôtel El Minzah. The Institut Français also has occasional concerts and theatre events and it provides French language courses throughout the year.  [in French]

DARNA  A charitable organization in Tangier, Morocco which helps women at risk and children in need. DARNA provides homeless girls and boys with food, shelter, education, activities and counseling. It also operates a gift shop and restaurant, located in the Maison Communautaire des Femmes building near the Grand Socco, which during lunch-time hours serves traditional Moroccan food to the general public in its courtyard restaurant for about 50 Moroccan Dirhams. The restaurant is open from 12 Noon until 3 PM, but it is closed throughout the month of Ramadan. [in French and English]

Cinémathèque de Tanger  A non-profit organization based in the restored Cinéma Rif on the Grand Socco in Tangier, Morocco. It presents national premieres of important new films, along with historic Moroccan, independent and world cinema. La Cinémathèque de Tanger (Cinéma Rif) was inaugurated by its founder Yto Barrada on February 24, 2007. The official opening's honored guests included Mohamed Nabil Benabdellah, the writer Tahar Ben Jelloun and several consul-generals. The first film shown at the new Cinéma Rif was Juanita de Tanger, produced by the talented Moroccan filmmaker Farida Benlyazid. The interior café–snack bar at Cinémathèque de Tanger provides free WiFi Internet service for its customers. Sign-up for its mailing list to receive a weekly e-mail news bulletin of films and other activities. [Français, Anglais] 

WHERE TO STAY IN TANGIER: HOTELS AND GUEST HOUSES

Maison Arabesque  In the heart of Tangier's Medina is Maison Arabesque, a beautiful maison d'hôtes (guest house) located at 73, rue Naciria. This former merchant's house dating from 1898 and built in Spanish-Moorish style, has been carefully restored and modernized by its helpful and friendly owner Peter. Maison Arabesque is an oasis of tranquility in the Medina, and it has comfortable beds and tasteful furnishings in a mixture of traditional Moroccan and contemporary décor. Maison Arabesque has five rooms or suites, each with a modern bath, and Paul Bowles provided the inspiration for two: The Sheltering Sky room and Paul's room. You may relax on the sun-filled rooftop terrace, use the free WiFi Internet connection, read an assortment of books and magazines, or rejuvenate in the hammam. Breakfast is included. Reasonably priced. [Dutch, English, Spanish, French]

Hôtel Continental  When the Hôtel Continental opened its doors in 1870, it became Tangier's first luxury establishment. Ever since, visitors to Tangier who want to explore the city but prefer to be in the Medina have often stayed in this hotel. The Hotel Continental is located at 36, Dar Baroud, within easy walking distance to the Kasbah, the beach and the port. Many of Its rooms have views of the port and ocean and are comfortably furnished, with full baths, satellite television, telephone and air-conditioning. There is a gift shop and the large dining room serves excellent European and Moroccan cuisine, and breakfasts are included. [Affordable]

La Tangerina (Maison d'hôtes)  La Tangerina is a 10-room riad-style hotel at 19, Riad Sultan in Tangier's Kasbah. Painstakingly restored by owners Jürgen and Farida, there is an intimate dining room, a lounge for reading, a hammam, and a rooftop terrace with views of the ocean and southern coast of Spain to die for― perfect for relaxing, sunning, having a cocktail or merely enjoying.  All of La Tangerina's unique rooms are furnished in an eclectic mixture of European colonial and traditional Moroccan styles, and each room has its own bath. Breakfasts are included, free WiFi Internet service is provided, and the riad is heated during the winter months. [English, French, Spanish and German]

Dar Nour (Chambres d'hôtes à Tanger)  Dar Nour is a guest house (bed-and-breakfast) in Tangier, located at 20 rue Gourna in the Kasbah. It provides comfortable and modern indoor living areas and the ten unique bedroom suites have plenty of hot water. There is a private rooftop terrace for sunning or merely relaxing and enjoying the views.  [in English and French]

Rif & Spa  This oceanfront hotel is located on Avenue Mohammed VI (formerly Avenue d'España) with its majestic palm trees and promenade, and a wide range of beach restaurants, shops and discothèques. The Rif & Spa hotel is air-conditioned and provides a fine restaurant, conference facilities with wireless Internet (Wi-Fi), a bar, spa and swimming pool. The Rif & Spa is ideal for those wanting to enjoy Tangier's large, crescent-shaped beach.

El Minzah Hôtel  Since 1930, the Minzah has been the preeminent luxury hotel in Tangier, Morocco. Conveniently located near the Place de France, its rooms and suites are all air-conditioned, many with sea and garden views, and it boasts several excellent restaurants providing Moroccan and European cuisine. Additionally, there is a popular piano bar and a large fitness and wellness center, a boutique, and a central courtyard where occasional art exhibitions are on display. Buffet luncheons on the terrace are popular, overlooking the hotel's swimming pool and flowering gardens set amidst scattered palms. El Minzah provides gracious Old World charm and comfort―a haven of tranquility in downtown Tangier. [Moderate to Expensive.]

Hôtel Le Mirage The luxurious Mirage is located several miles from Tangier, directly overlooking the Atlantic Ocean near the Grottes d'Hercules and the white-sand beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakar. Le Mirage is an intimate hotel, providing the ultimate in privacy and comfort in its beautifully decorated rooms, suites and bungalows. The Mirage has a large swimming pool surrounded by gardens and sunning areas and a gymnasium and fitness center with sauna and spa services. Excellent food is served in the indoor restaurant or outdoor dining terrace overlooking the ocean, and there is an intimate paneled bar. WiFi service is provided. [Expensive. Web site is in French, English and Spanish]

Villa Josephine This sprawling, classic Mediterranean-style villa was originally built in the early 1900s as a residence for Times of London correspondent Walter Harris and later the summer residence for Pasha Thami El Glaoui of Marrakech. Villa Joséphine has ten spacious and tasteful suites, five with private terraces or balconies and ocean views. Its large swimming pool and sun terraces are surrounded by well-landscaped gardens, flowers and palm trees. Villa Joséphine provides some of the best French and Moroccan cuisine in Tangier in its large elegant indoor dining room, or outside on the terrace, with impeccable service. There is also an intimate  wood-paneled bar. Villa Joséphine is located in Sidi Masmoudi, a quiet and exclusive area on the Old Mountain, with views of the Strait of Gibraltar and Bay of Tangier. [Very expensive.] 

PLACES TO STAY IN THE SAHARA AND FAR SOUTH OF MOROCCO

Chez le Pacha If you want to follow in the footsteps of Paul Bowles and take a trip to the far south of Morocco or venture into the dunes of the Sahara, consider staying at auberge–hôtel Chez le Pacha―a strikingly beautiful, comfortable and reasonably-priced oasis of tranquility that is the creation of Youssef Dakhamat. Located south of Zagora, Morocco near Ouled Driss, and eight kilometers north of M'Hamid el Ghizlane. All of Chez le Pacha's air-conditioned rooms have bath rooms with plenty of hot and cold water and showers, and the dining room pavilion serves traditional Moroccan cuisine for dinners, lunches and breakfasts. The large swimming pool is surrounded by palm trees, perfect for cooling off and relaxing in this hot and arid area of Morocco where daytime temperatures can reach 125 degrees Fahrenheit (about 50 degrees Celsius) during the summer months. There is amazingly fast WiFi Internet service in the reception area. Jeep (4X4) or camel treks into the Saharan sand dunes are easily arranged, as well as other excursions to various kasbahs, ksars or the verdant Drâa valley and nearby oases. The large walled compound at Chez le Pacha has terraces, flowers, peacocks, and even a camel and a donkey. Nora, Chez le Pacha's helpful and friendly receptionist, speaks very good English.  Highly recommended. [in French, German]

Dar el Janoub Another comfortable place to stay in the Sahara is auberge-hôtel Dar el Janoub, located in the tiny village of Hassi-Lbied, near Merzouga, Rissani and Erfoud in the far south of Morocco. Paul Bowles could not have found a more comfortable place to stay in the Moroccan desert so vividly described in his short story "The Baptism of Solitude". Explore the Erg Chebbi dunes, nearby oases, and enjoy the peace and quiet which the desert uniquely provides. Dar el Janoub has a swimming pool, and its accommodations are in 17 air-conditioned rooms, two junior suites, or two suites, each with a lounge and a private terrace that directly overlooks the dunes. The restaurant provides traditional Moroccan food, and there is a bar, but no televisions or telephones, thus ensuring a quiet and relaxing experience. Upon request, you may also take a jeep excursion (4x4 vehicle) or camel trek into the dunes for a once-in-a-lifetime vacation in the Sahara region of southern Morocco. Dar el Janoub is open year around, and the rooms have individually-controlled heating and cooling systems. [Español, English, Italiano, Français]

ART GALLERIES AND SHOPS IN TANGIER, MOROCCO

Boutique Majid  When exploring Tangier's Medina, you should at least look at Boutique Majid. It has long been regarded as the best antique shop in the Medina and one of the finest in the city. Here you will find one-of-a-kind souvenirs from Morocco and a large selection of antique jewelry, embroidery, carpets, chests, and more. For over 40 years, the English-speaking owner Abdel Majid Raïss el Fenni has sold unique items to many celebrities and world-renowned visitors to Tangier.

Galerie Volubilis Located in Tangier's Kasbah, the Volubilis Art Gallery, run by Karla Raïss El Fenni, has regular exhibitions of Moroccan and other artists' paintings. For fashionable clothing and art works, visit the Volubilis Boutique, run by Mohamed Raïss El Fenni (Majid's brother) and wife Karla. Volubilis Boutique is located on the Petit Socco in the Medina, directly opposite the ever-popular Café Central or Café Tingis. At Volubilis you may look at or purchase paintings by the talented Moroccan designer and artist Mohammed Raïss El Fenni.

Medina Art Gallery  The Medina Art Gallery in Tangier has exhibitions of paintings by artists from Morocco and other countries. It is located at 30 Avenue Abou Chouaib Doukali in the Bel Air area of Tangier, near the Mohammed V Hospital.

Galerie Dar D'art Tanger  Dar D'art is a modern art gallery in downtown Tangier located at 6, rue Khalil Metrane, a short walk from the Place de France. The gallery has regular exhibitions of contemporary art works by talented Moroccan painters. Dar D'art is owned and managed by Chokri Bentaout. For further details on current exhibits, visit the gallery's Web site or call 05 39 37 57 07.

TOUR GUIDE IN TANGIER, MOROCCO

Aziz Begdouri  If you are looking for an experienced, knowledgeable and friendly Moroccan guide in Tangier, Morocco, look no farther than Aziz Begdouri. He speaks excellent English, Spanish, French, and Arabic. Aziz will meet you at the Tangier port or airport and will give you or your group a private tour of Tangier―walking through the Medina, the Kasbah and other areas, or in his air-conditioned van, or a combination of both. To telephone Aziz Begdouri in Morocco, from Europe: dial 00 212 6 61 63 93 32; or if calling from Canada or the United States, just dial 011 212 6 61 63 93 32. To telephone Aziz from Spain, dial 00 34 607 89 79 67. When calling from within Morocco you dial 06 61 63 93 32. You may also contact him by e-mail for further details and various tour options: aziztours@hotmail.com

HOW TO CALL TELEPHONES IN MOROCCO

Morocco's international telephone country code is 212. When calling from outside Morocco, do not dial the first 0 after the 212 country code. An additional digit–number is required to reach either a fixed–landline telephone or a mobile–portable telephone in Morocco. To reach a fixed telephone, you now must dial 212 and 5 and then the rest of the number (omitting any 0 after the 212). From abroad, to dial a portable or mobile phone in Morocco, you now must dial dial 212 and 6 and then the rest of the number (omitting any 0 after the 212).

To dial a fixed telephone from within Morocco, first dial 05 and then the number. To dial a mobile or cellular phone from within Morocco, first dial 06 and then the number. Morocco's two main telephone and Internet service providers are Maroc Telecom (also known as Itissalat Al-Maghrib or IAM) and Méditel.

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